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PostPosted: May 17th, '18, 10:26 
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Yes, sorry, bit too obvious. Am puzzled - how does a roller "drop"?

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PostPosted: May 17th, '18, 10:57 
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INMA wrote:

The reason car springs last longer than trailer springs is they are better designed and developed before production and things like shock absorbers and better rubber bushing control the energies in extreme situations.


I have often wondered why we don't see shock absorbers on boat trailers. Well at least I have not noticed any. They are common on caravans, is it simply down to the constant dunking ? Or am I missing something ?


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PostPosted: May 17th, '18, 23:26 
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I concur. Is there any reason NOT to include shock absorbers? It should not be too difficult to make mountings for them. Then again I would probably have problems..........
Today was meant to take the new frame to be galvanized but spent my time attaching various bits and pieces that will be galvanized and which would otherwise have resulted in the galvanizing blowing off when they were welded. Tomorrow we pick up the new roller assembly which will also be welded on before galvanizing. Fumbling around in the dark and learning as I go. Having trouble locating 24mm round bar but it must be out there somewhere.

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PostPosted: May 18th, '18, 04:39 
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I used Stainless steel bars for rollers.

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PostPosted: May 18th, '18, 07:10 
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Tinggu wrote:
Yes, sorry, bit too obvious. Am puzzled - how does a roller "drop"?

The roller brackets are adjustable (shaft in a sleeve with a coarse threaded bolt to hold it in position) and they don't necessarily stay where they are put.



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PostPosted: May 18th, '18, 14:27 
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Re: shockabsorbers on boat trailers.
I have a friend in the far north that does that. Google Tait Welding, you may get some ideas.
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PostPosted: May 21st, '18, 18:43 
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Bit of a sad day today. Having spent every day from then to yesterday getting the new trailer ready for galvanizing we took it to Geelong today and then brought it home. The job was going to cost $990, just about double what we had been led to believe, and since the job has blown out already by about $600 we just don't have the money. Apart from the huge disappointment, wasted day, wasted fuel etc I now have to find an alternative coating. To start with all the vents and holes lovingly prepared for the galvanizing now have to be sealed off. The open ends of the hollow sections sealed too. There are so many products out there all spruiking their merits...... from the current "Stanchions" topic elsewhere on this forum I'm now looking at Cortec VpCI-368D and VpCI-368D but it's not clear whether they can be used as a sealing base to be coated over. Rust Bullet says it can.
I'm very disappointed in this outcome as I'm sure INMA will be too!

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PostPosted: May 23rd, '18, 17:26 
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First step is to seal up all the holes and gaps. ½" bolts welded into the holes seems to work well. The open hollow sections will now be endcapped. Out with the zinc paint. Still have not decided on the rustproofing finish. Rust Bullet looks pretty good but still considering more traditional methods.

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PostPosted: May 23rd, '18, 17:57 
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I've got to say, anything other than galvanising really isn't doing justice to a new build frame. Surely you'd be better off saving up a few hundred dollars and galvanising in Spring rather than doing a half a job?

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PostPosted: May 23rd, '18, 20:22 
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sealing it completely, if you don't galvanise, also means that you can't get anything in to stop it rusting from the inside out... fish oil or other rust deterrent? Or even just to allwo a good hose out from time to time...

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PostPosted: May 23rd, '18, 23:16 
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zebedee wrote:
I've got to say, anything other than galvanising really isn't doing justice to a new build frame. Surely you'd be better off saving up a few hundred dollars and galvanising in Spring rather than doing a half a job?

Our boat is on a borrowed jetty. Wish we could leave it there. Yes, yes, you all correct. It is a shame, but can't spend what I don't have.

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PostPosted: May 24th, '18, 11:41 
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MargGannet wrote:
sealing it completely, if you don't galvanise, also means that you can't get anything in to stop it rusting from the inside out... fish oil or other rust deterrent? Or even just to allwo a good hose out from time to time...


I agree, any moisture inside those cross members will sit at the lowest points - right on the welds - asking for trouble.
I replaced some cross members with similar profiles on a boat trailer once and left a 12mm hole at the high points either side. I then poured a couple of litres of fish oil/turps mix into each, plugged the holes with rubber plugs and sort of swished it all around to coat the lower surfaces. I figured that it will keep on swishing and coating for a while when on the road. Maybe even a recycled sump oil "watered" down with some turps mixture to keep it runny would be better than nothing?
I guess one can always refill through the plugged holes again following an oil change if you put in a sump plug at the lower points :idea:

I'm always in the same boat as you are at the moment Tinggu - Champagne tastes - beer budget!

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PostPosted: May 24th, '18, 13:03 
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This is amazing, spray or paint on and drys to a dry waxy thick film. Much betterer than the alternatives.


Valvoline Tectyl 506 Rust Preventative.

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PostPosted: May 24th, '18, 15:40 
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Tinguu. While l admire your approach to only spend within your budget have you done a life cycle cost exercise? Paint and special treatments add up over time. Not to mention time and loss of resale. Gal might work out cheaper.
Bummer situation but l have been there with a painted trailer.

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PostPosted: May 24th, '18, 18:19 
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The seam welds on the rectangular tubes are unlikely to be air or watertight.

I am not a great lover of credit cards to pay a bill but this time seems to pass my cost benefit calculation to use credit via a card.

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PostPosted: May 24th, '18, 22:53 
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Hi All,

Banks are in real trouble, they offer cheap overdraft for important project, maybe even tax deductible or government

subsidized for helping small business.

Good luck, try them all.

Regards Frank.


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PostPosted: May 24th, '18, 23:59 
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Slammin wrote:
This is amazing, spray or paint on and drys to a dry waxy thick film. Much betterer than the alternatives.


Valvoline Tectyl 506 Rust Preventative.


I'm not saying it's not great stuff but here is a pdf from Cortec which appears to suggest THEIR products are Oh! So Much Better. And it does seem to be a properly undertaken comparison test.

Attachment:
13-136-1825.bis.pdf [193.41 KiB]
Downloaded 8 times


Tectyl does not seem to be very durable in salt fog. But Slammin says it works great for him.

I'm veering off Rust Bullet. When I asked if there was a job from a while back that I could see as an appraisal (not sure if that's the right terminology) I was referred to forums as they "do not disclose customer information". That I understand but I was hoping he could refer me to some public works such as the Harbour Bridge or something. The forum discussions were not helpful, in fact most people seem to have trouble applying it. On the one hand the product claims to be easy to use and penetrates the surface and the rust to make an impervious barrier but then the practicality of the fine print for observing the exact process seems quite daunting and difficult. Rust Bullet's promotional stuff shows a USN aircraft carrier, presumably soaked in Rust Bullet top to bottom. I don't think.
It's obviously a minefield out there of expensive coatings all claiming to be better than each other.

I'll start with zinc paint on the welds while I think about this.

When I was doing lost wax casting I had a vibrating canister of steel shot in a soap solution for cleaning and brightening silver charms. I was always impressed how the steel shot never rusted, even left for weeks between jobs. One time I thought I'd do the right thing and rinsed the shot out in fresh water and put it back in the canister. Next time I went to use it the whole 15kg had rusted into a single lump. Luckily I was able to break it up, add the soap solution and after a few rinsings it was bright again and remained so. Perhaps I'll fill the tubes with soap solution.........just kidding but rust is funny stuff. Needs air, water, and electrolyte. I'm wondering if eliminating any one of those and the rust cannot proceed. Much like Fire which needs a combination of oxygen and fuel. Eliminate one of them and it goes out.

I'm liking the idea of using the release holes for the galvanizing for filling with sloshy oily stuff, or at least squirting in Fishoilene.

I'm amazed that hollow tube leaks along the seam weld. That's scary. I was thinking of pressurizing the tubes with tubeless tyre valves to keep the water out. That won't work.
Back to the drawing board.

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 06:55 
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Sorry Tingu, i was short of time, the Tectyl is a final coating protectant. Not paint or galvanizing replacement.

Lanolin is expensive and disappears as does fish oil. I don't think, grease and turps have a place on items that get dunked into the environment that we also swim in.

I am on the same boat as others, the $900 is worthwhile. Your painting options would be fine IF you had open C beams. However I realise that would mean re-engineering a new trailer design.
I went through the same dilemma. In the end I went galvanizing and sprayed Tectyl into the beams using a body deadening style tube.

I can only suggest, build the trailer, borrow a trailer to retrieve yours and transfer your boat on dry land and vice versa when you can galvanize. Or borrow the $300. You expected $600 but it was $900. Deal breaker?

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 09:39 
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Slammin wrote:
You expected $600 but it was $900. Deal breaker?

"around $400" "$4 to $500"..........$991

Slammin wrote:
......sprayed Tectyl into the beams using a body deadening style tube


Can you explain how this works? Thanks.

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 13:06 
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https://www.cleaningshop.com.au/content ... n_Kit.html

Or a degreasing gun with similar tube is also good.

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 20:20 
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We assume the preparation of the steel tube before galvanising disposes of all impuriies so the stuff sticks to the then bare metal inside the tube and when the process is over the excess drains neatly out of the inlet/weep holes provided. Really? OK I am a born sceptic and I have only seen the process on steel rubbish bins 60 years ago but my guess is all this is probably 80% effective at best. Just a couple of voids and things start to rust from the inside out anyway.

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 20:23 
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What dollars per kilo are they quoting you for the galvanizing ?

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 20:47 
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Colect, well designed steelworks will get close to 100% of the areas galvanised internally and externally.

The good news even areas where the zinc is scarce are still protected by zinc properly applied for many millimeters. Depending on conditions bare areas 20mm to 100 mm from the galvanising remain protected by hot dip galvanising.

It has been noted in other threads that the zinc is cheap, its the energy to melt the zinc that makes up a lot of the cost to run the process. Energy costs have increased hence the cost of galvanising will increase.

Saving a few hundred dollars to spend money on more energy and time painting the metal seems a lot of work for a poor result.

Galvanising will outlast most of us whereas paint will struggle to last a few years.

Remember paint is always limited by the surface preparation. Any treatment inside tubes will be next to useless in five years after exposure to salt water and salt air parked at boat ramps.

And when its time to sell the yacht, sensible buyers won't touch a painted trailer and factor in $8k for a new trailer. Saving $300 at this stage is going to be costly in a few years.

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PostPosted: May 25th, '18, 23:51 
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Had another quote today from Furphy, Shepparton:

"Thank you for your inquiry, please allow approximately $1000 - $1200 + GST to hot dip galvanize your boat trailer including the box of bits."

I had been quite positive for a cosy quote as this is the face of their estimates webpage: http://www.furphys.com.au/what-we-do/ga ... -quotation

When I queried the price - is zinc $100 a kg? this was the reply:

"As it’s a trailer and generally trailers take up quite a lot of space on our jigs, we have given you a price in total to galvanise the trailer excl GST. The price includes the zinc levy which at the moment is 30%. The zinc levy is based on the world LME zinc price, we have a base buy price and when the zinc price goes up a percentage is added to cover us.
The picture that you emailed me is an example of when you are give a price per kg from us and then the zinc levy. In this case you don’t need to use those calculations."

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PostPosted: May 26th, '18, 15:33 
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Slammin wrote:
https://www.cleaningshop.com.au/contents/en-us/p17979_Septone_Body_Deadener_Spray_Gun_Kit.html

Or a degreasing gun with similar tube is also good.


I use a 5ltr garden sprayer filled with deodorised fish oil, I have adapted the normal spray nozzle to fit a 1/4 inch tube (the type used for fridge water filtration systems) and have a small garden 360 degree sprayer nozzle fitted to the end of the approx 1.5metre tube - the nozzle screws directly into the tube end. The end result is a spray system that will get into small holes. I poke the tube down the cross member from the outside edge opening (the cross member hangs below the side rail for galvanising reasons) and hit the spray gun trigger and draw the tube up the cross member to the tube entry point. I have buckets under the lower drain holes in the cross member to catch the excess oil - that I put back in the spray bottle. The only down side is that the fish oil lubrcates the pressure pump maybe too much - but it still works.

I bought 4 ltd of Septone Fish oil from super cheap for approx $20 before super cheap started selling their own branded oil at double the price.

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