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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '18, 20:45 
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Getting my Yamaha four stroke serviced before another Whitsunday trip. It's not looking good with corrosion and reluctance to pay lots to keep a 26 year old motor alive. My concern is replacing it with current model if the dimensions have increased (it is mounted in a well) and keeping existing (built in) remote cables and electrics. Has anyone had new for old experience with this outboard?

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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '18, 21:04 
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Merv_Edmunds wrote:
Getting my Yamaha four stroke serviced before another Whitsunday trip. It's not looking good with corrosion and reluctance to pay lots to keep a 26 year old motor alive. My concern is replacing it with current model if the dimensions have increased (it is mounted in a well) and keeping existing (built in) remote cables and electrics. Has anyone had new for old experience with this outboard?


Hey Merv,
everyone who has an outboard in a well goes thru the same problem eventually.
The only way is to get the tape measure out and the specs of the new engines and do a comparison.
I cant comment on the remote cables. I thought they may be universal, but probably not.
let us know how you go.
cheers,
Az

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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '18, 20:49 
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Thanks Az, latest from dealer is it may not be as bad as originally thought. Biggest headache is lower spark plug is not for turning so it is a bit of a wait and see game at present. Will keep you posted.
Merv

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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '18, 21:31 
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Merv,
Apart lots of measuring, you can make up a ply replica of your boats well.

I seen this done with by the previous Magnum builder so the well mock up could be taken to outboard dealers and various motors tried for fit.

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PostPosted: Feb 1st, '18, 23:13 
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Pretty sure they use universal cables for the remote controls and they have M5 threads on the ends, usually just a matter of fitting the correct ends to suit whatever controller. I recently fitted a sail lever control (purchased from whitworths) to one and the bits came with the controller.
My yammy 9.9 4 stroke is a 1996 model, came off a houseboat I believe, perfect for my boat but it is a tad heavy. But it has all the fruit so can live with the extra kgs thats the trade off.
The anode was missing on it and one of the bonding wires had also corroded through so fixed that, got a genuine OEM anode of a guy selling them from QLD on ebay, the bonding wire I made myself from some 1mm stainless wire.
The cold start mechanism is a bit iffy but starts after a few goes and give it a good warm up first.
Really happy with the perfomance, power and sound levels of the motor so cant see any need to go to a different motor for now.
Only bitch is figuring out how to make a linkage to the rudder? I am thinking a 5ft teleflex cable system if they make one. Manual linkage virtually impossible due to the differences in radius and centre turning points.
Having said that can get reasonable maneuverability when locked in centre and the reverse thrust nails it when needed.
Having a key start system saves a lot of face, couldnt think of anything worse drifting over someones boat or a reef desperately yanking a cord trying to start a crappy 2 stroke. Give me the reliability of a 4 stroke anyday.

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PostPosted: Feb 1st, '18, 23:25 
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Not sure how you got on with yours Merv but while I was researching parts for mine, many of the parts were the same numbers on even the current models, so I would say little difference between old and new. I think the new ones came in a bit lighter it was however difficult to get the actual weights due to so many different variations and extras. My guess its the same motor with a different cowling and that there is where may lie a problem if you opt for a new one.

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PostPosted: Feb 1st, '18, 23:50 
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megawatt wrote:
Only bitch is figuring out how to make a linkage to the rudder? I am thinking a 5ft teleflex cable system if they make one. Manual linkage virtually impossible due to the differences in radius and centre turning points.


It's possible but I'm not sure it is worth the trouble.
Linking outboard to tiller with rope and bungy

Linking with a strut

More detail on the required geometry for a strut to work right, with diagrams

Also, if rudder and outboard are linked, you can't do things like reversing on full starboard rudder and motor, then putting the outboard flat out in forward, hard to port, with the tiller still to starboard until the boat stops going backwards, thus spinning virtually on the spot; sometimes useful when reversing out of a tight spot.

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PostPosted: Feb 5th, '18, 00:53 
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I watched a youtube video where a guy hooked up a 12v linear actuator motor to do the steering.
https://youtu.be/g1gaEEN6txI
Looks interesting idea so have ordered one off ebay, might just go manual switching with a rocker switch on the tiller

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PostPosted: Feb 5th, '18, 01:02 
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megawatt wrote:
I watched a youtube video where a guy hooked up a 12v linear actuator motor to do the steering.
https://youtu.be/g1gaEEN6txI
Looks interesting idea so have ordered one off ebay, might just go manual switching with a rocker switch on the tiller

I might copy and paste this to another thread I had started when fitting the yammy to my Ross780 mk1
so peeps can follow it from there as Im going off topic here a bit.

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PostPosted: Feb 5th, '18, 07:22 
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megawatt wrote:
I watched a youtube video where a guy hooked up a 12v linear actuator motor to do the steering.
https://youtu.be/g1gaEEN6txI
Looks interesting idea so have ordered one off ebay, might just go manual switching with a rocker switch on the tiller


That looks way too high tech...and now I'm having silly thoughts about my mainsheet traveller.....Steering mr ray from up the bow AND being able to trim the main...

did you see this guy using a modified drill? WTF??????

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1tmN1S7SBrg

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PostPosted: Feb 5th, '18, 08:31 
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Didn't moody have some arrangement with a cordless drill?


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PostPosted: Feb 5th, '18, 08:58 
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Not a cordless drill, but a linear actuator controlled by a cable with centre off switch.

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=12111&p=136314&hilit=Ernie#p136314

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PostPosted: Feb 21st, '18, 11:13 
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Hey Guys,
Picked up motor last week, all new seals, belts and gaskets plus a thorough check on water pump and corrosion concerns. Back in position, started easily and running like it always did. Work done by the guy I bought it from nearly 30 years ago. He is no longer a Yamaha agent but was happy to do the work for me. Thanks for your comments - I am so pleased it wasn't necessary to make a new one fit.
Merv

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